Uzbekistan – The Wonder of Central Asia

This former Soviet state is now increasingly popular with tourists who want to savour its wonderful sights.  We visited:

1. 

   Tashkent.  The capital is a surprisingly spacious and elegant modern city.  The large Khast Imam Square contains the Muyie Mubarak Library with the ancient and huge Osman Koran, claimed to be the world’s oldest.

2. Khiva. (We flew to Urgench)  This ancient walled city is like a open-air museum with breathtaking sights around every corner.  No cars are allowed inside the walls so it is a marvellous place to wander around.
3. Ayaz Qala and Topraq Qala are two remarkable ruins of hill forts built some 2000 years ago as citadels which dominated the plains.
4. Bukara. A key stop on the ancient silk road, this is the most complete example of a medieval city in central Asia.  It is packed with stunning sights including the Kalon Square and Minaret, the fortress Ark, the Samarinds Mausoleum (from 900 AD), the Chor Minor and the Emir’s Summer Palace.
5. Shakhrisabz is the home town of the great conqueror Tamerlane. The ruins of the Ak Serai Palace and the huge statue bear testament to him.
6. Samarkand. The city is a brilliant jewel.  The Registan is renowned as the finest square in the world.  There are many fabulous sights to see including the Bibi Khanum mosque and the Shah-i-Zinda mausoleums.

Here are some personal observations on Uzbekistan:

• The central part of the country is remarkably flat – vast steppes – some fertile, some desert.
• The country is clean, modern and relatively prosperous but you still see women sweeping the street with broomsticks and carts pulled by donkeys.
• The people are very friendly, helpful and welcoming to visitors.
• The country is Muslim but westernized.  Older people wear traditional dress but women do not wear burkhas or headscarves.
• You see no black faces.
• There are many European tourists and some from China but we saw none from the USA.
• It is an inexpensive place to visit – you can eat a good meal for under $10.
• The food is bland rather than spicy.
• The country is the cross-roads of Asia and has seen hundreds of wars and countless brutal invasions.
• You see very few Western brands or retailers.  But you can get Coca-Cola and the local beer is fine.  Local wine is quite drinkable.
• It is remarkable to see storks nesting on the tops of buildings and to see people picking cotton in the fields.
• The local money is the Sum.  There are about 10,000 to $1!  You need plenty of small notes as in most places it will cost you 1000 Sum (10 cents) to go to the toilet.
• The roads are bumpy and dangerous with motorists performing U-turns on dual carriageways.
• You see plenty of Daewoo, Chevrolet and Lada cars – nearly all in white.  You rarely see a BMW, Ford or Mercedes.
• They are very good at wrestling and boxing.  The country’s nickname at the Olympic Games was Uzboxingstan!

Our tour was organized by Cox and Kings.  It is highly recommended for the bolder traveller.  It is roasting hot in summer and freezing cold in winter so go in Spring or Autumn.

Paul Sloane